Periodization Training Ep.1 :: Endurance

We’re spending the month of September near Rumney, and Tino, the very cool head-route-setter and trainer at Salt Pump recommended that the two months prior could be an easy experiment in periodized training, optimizing for peak when we arrive at Rumney.

Part one of a periodized training regimen is endurance. We’re tackling this by fitting as many toprope (TR) routes into a two hour session at the gym as possible (goal is 20.)

I’m combining this with my new 85% success strategy of training and learning. The idea is: warm-up (about 6 routes); then climb at a level of difficulty that will lead to falls about 1x per route, for the remaining 14 routes of the day.

My first session (7-16-17)  looked like this:

  • All routes are climbed in pairs: 2 in a row, same rope, no untying
  • 30 second rest at most between route pairs for water and fiddling with shoes.
  • The first 8 routes were climbed on autobelay which allows for downclimbing.
  • Then there is a longer rest between every pair as I belay Daniel.

5.7
5.7 repeat/ downclimb
5.9
5.9 repeat /downclimb
5.6
5.6 repeat /downclimb
5.6
5.6 repeat/ downclimb
5.8
5.7
5.7
5.11a (fell 3x)
5.8
5.10a (fell 1x)
5.10b
5.10b repeat, fell 1x
5.10c
5.8
5.10b (fell 3x)
5.7

That is 20 pitches of an average of 42 feet in 2 hours (840 feet). Typically I can onsight 5.10b or easier while toproping at Salt Pump, so falling multiple times on a 10b by the end of the routine indicated a decent fatigue level.

However, when I look at that list of 20 pitches/grades, I’m thinking about how to optimize for 85% input next time we run this program. The program that I ran is too easy; the falls should be happening at a rate of 1-2x per route after warmup.

My Second Session (7-18-17) Looked Like This:

5.7
5.7 repeat /downclimb
5.8
5.8 repeat/ downclimb
5.6
5.6 repeat/ downclimb
5.10a
5.10b
5.10b repeat
5.10a
5.10a repeat
5.10c (fall3x)
5.10c (not a repeat route, 0x falls)
5.10b
5.10b repeat, fall 3x
5.7
5.7 repeat/ downclimb
5.9
5.9 repeat, fall 1x

Generally, this session went better, but was still a little too easy.  The time was compressed, so we only got to 19 routes apiece.

Third Session 7-21-17:

  • We switched to doing 3 routes in a row, for the most part
  • Rests between 3-up routes around 30 seconds
  • Rests between 3-up sets are long enough for partner to climb a 3-up: typically 10 minutes.
  • The consistency of the climbing grade is harder, but the falls are less.  I need to bump-up the difficulty again

5.6
5.6 repeat/ downclimb
5.8
5.8 repeat/ downclimb
5.9
5.7 downclimb
::rest
10a
10a repeat
::rest
10d (fall 1x)
10d repeat
::rest
10a
10a repeat
10a
::rest
10c
10c repeat
5.8
::rest
10c
10c repeat
10a
::rest
10b

Fourth Session: 7.26.17

This session was hard. I think it’s because we started at 10:30am, when our normal workout starts at 4pm or later….anyway, I was almost constantly estimating whether I would actually puke, and if so, could I untie fast enough to get someplace decent….

5.7
5.7 repeat
::rest
5.8
5.8 repeat
5.8
::rest
10c fall 1x
10c repeat fall 1x
10b
::rest
10b
10b repeat fall 1x
5.7
::rest
10c fall 1x
10c repeat fall 1x
5.7
::rest
10a
5.6 downclimb
::rest
5.9
5.7 downclimb
::rest
5.6
5.6 repeat downclimb

Fifth Session: 8.1.17 (improved time from 2 hours to 90 minutes)

5.6
5.6 downclimb repeat
5.8
5.8 downclimb repeat
::rest
5.9
5.7 downclimb
::rest
5.7
5.7 downclimb repeat
5.6
5.6 downclimb repeat
::rest
10b
10b repeat
5.9
::rest
10c
10c repeat fall1x
5.7
::rest
10c
10c repeat fall 1x
10a
::rest
10c
::rest
5.8

Will continue to update this piece for the remainder of endurance.

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